![]() Of course you can make the full building larger by attaching straight buildings forming a continuous whole at either side, but the corner module must be 32 x 32: Therefore, your baseplate will always have to be 32 x 32 studs. In the case of a corner building, you’re dealing with two connecting points at a 90 degree angle of each other. That way the Technic bricks with hole will always align and allow for the buildings to be attached to one another through the use of Technic pins. Whether your building is 8 studs wide or 64 studs wide, the sizes in depth are always the same. The connection points, pavement, walls etc. The width is variable with straight buildings, always being a multiple of 8 studs. Generally speaking, every baseplate is 32 studs deep. There’s basically two types of building in this standard. I will describe the CCMS as applied in Lego’s sets and as applied by many fans. An ideal standard for combining buildings is the so-called Café Corner Modular Standard (or CCMS).īut if you don’t own a Cafe Corner, Green Grocer, etc., how do you know what rules to follow to make your building fit in with the rest? We regularly see each other at meetings and bring along a construction or two of our own. Link to Eurobricks discussion: Link (thanks to Rick & Rapseflaps!) Link to Aliencat’s original article: Link (thanks Aliencat!) Hope you enjoy and find it as useful as I did. So Aliencat’s guide comes in useful to understand the basics behind creating more sets. Since there is only one official modular set a year, what’s a gal to do but to create more herself? I love city sets to build up my town (kinda like playing Sim City come to think of it), but only the modular series offers the challenge and surprises (new techniques!) that makes building those sets such a joy. The modular series is probably one of the factors that made me an AFOL. It’s a how-to guide to modular buildings by Aliencat, translated by Rapseflaps from Eurobricks. To “commemorate” the occasion, I’ve re-blogged a great article I came across awhile back. I remember the program indicating there were over 11,000 pieces in my building, so I finished the top floors and called it complete.I think I’ll hit 2,000 page views tomorrow (though I think the World Cup may have an impact on AFOLs who surf the net, haha). While I wanted to go much taller, I was losing patience. I recall growing weary of building this project. Complete model.Īgain, the LDD program records the number of pieces used, the dimensions of your project, and what it would cost if you ordered it as a package to build a physical, tangible replica. The structural columns and beams that would keep this building standing are all meticulously arranged, however. I did this because once a model is finished, there is no way to open it up to show the interior details. Reluctantly, I spared interior details like floors, elevators, stairwells, mechanical systems, and offices. Luckily I had saved these images on a separate hard drive. Unfortunately, my PC that had the program crashed. The exact number of pieces is counted by the LDD program. I still had to choose each piece with the mouse cursor, then drag and drop it into position. Once my structure was complete at street level, I was able to start going up.Īlthough I built this model in a virtual form, is was no easier than building it with actual ABS plastic Lego pieces. ![]() I included traffic lights, decorative street lamps, ornamental trees, mail drop boxes, corner trash receptacles, a parking ramp entrance with gates, bicycle racks, and a covered entryway with decorative "pavement." Since LDD does not allow you to build "underground", I could not make the footings or subterranean parking structure. I built this office building a few years ago. Lego Digital Designer used to be my favorite way to spend free moments of time, before I found Steemit! ![]()
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